Friday, September 28, 2007

Training wall....details

This new training facility needs members. Currently there are five of us, more would be better.Its located a couple of miles outside St Ives. Its not a public wall. What we are looking for is people who will commit to contributing to the weekly rent. Its £45 a week and there are five of us so far, so more people will mean it gets cheaper for all!

We so far have two boards (details below). Realistically it's for climbers who want to train/get stronger...access if you come on board is anytime!


For those who are interested, our Moon Board currently has Setup 01 and Setup 02 giving us 12 graded problems from the Moon Climbing website in the Font 6C to 8A range. the Moon Board is 40 degrees off vertical and the other board is an Uncarved Bloc board (same as the one at Porkelis,for those that have been there) that is 50ish degrees off vertical. Electricity and use of on site toilet/running water is a good selling point too.

If you want more details leave your email address and i will get back to you...cheers

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Training at the Studio...members wanted!



This new training facility needs members. Currently there are four of us, more would be better.Its located a couple of miles outside St Ives. Tuesday evening is a good time to come along. Contact me through the blog and I'll give you directions etc.
For those who are interested, our Moon Board currently has Setup 01 and Setup 02 giving us 12 graded problems from the Moon Climbing website in the Font 6C to 8A range. the Moon Board is 40 degrees off vertical and the other board is an Uncarved Bloc board (same as the one at Porkelis,for those that have been there) that is 50ish degrees off vertical. Electricity and use of on site toilet/running water is a good selling point too.

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

News

"Barney Carver, with Helen Pardoe spotting, making a successful ascent of 'The Groove' V8 6c at Clodgy Point, St. Ives." Tobi Carver/UE Images.

News from Barnaby Carver.

Andy - As you know I succeeded on my long-term project at Clodgy Point on Bank Holiday Monday (28th May). I’ve called the new highball problem ‘The Groove’ and think it’s V8 6c. When I did it I used two normal pads, one extra large one and one extra small one. I also used two normal sized spotters! The full description of the problem is as follows…

"** The Groove V8 6c X. One of Clodgy’s most serious and best highball problems takes the undercut overhanging groove in its entirety. A hard start leads to a technical and tenuous sequence of bridging moves up the groove, which is exited leftwards at its top. The arĂȘte on the right is used but not the chossy hanging blocks further right."

Also at Clodgy (on 24-07-07) I climbed a full anticlockwise traverse around the Australia Boulder which links ‘Northern Track’ into ‘Work in Progress’ and continues to reverse ‘Stainless Steel’ before finishing upwards at the starting point. I’ve named this link-up ‘Circumnavigation’ and think it justifies a grade of V9 6c as it takes in all of the hard climbing on ‘Work in Progress’(V8) in addition to lots of strenuous V5 climbing and is a demanding 20 metres long in total.

Oh! And I reckon that new traverse I climbed at Godrevy on 29-06-2007 should be called ‘The Poacher’ because I nicked it! It’s probably easy V7 6b but on the tiring side!

Thursday, August 02, 2007

hurrah a new problem



After months of rain, I managed to get out and do a new problem. What made it more special was that I think its a new discovery. A small crag and cave made up of tufa like formations, the calcite deposits have bonded the weaker rock underneath. There are a few things there to do, also great snorkelling and plenty of elimates and link ups. I'm not sure of the grade, it was quite a few moves long for me and it was very hot!......

Oh yea the edited video is made up of two takes!
video

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Godrevy short movie




A useful video for locating problems and some beta!....let us know what you reckon of the grades? French Toast is probably harder than V6, maybe 7 or bit harder, I just checked the rockfax grade comparison chart http://www.rockfax.com/publications/bgrades.html and as a move its defefintely hard 6c!

On the video I mistakenly called James problem 'evening sunset' which is wrong it should be 'perfect evening light'....evening sunset is another problem on Carn Brea.
video

Friday, April 20, 2007

recent activity

This info related to the graded list previously posted click here for list!

New repeats not listed -
Carn Brea: 'Blown Away' has been repeated by Barnaby Carver (9-10-06) and Andy Whall (?-03-07)

Godrevy: 'Providence' has been repeated by Mike Adams (?-??-06) (this was reported in Climber);
'Piss Pot' repeated by Max Dutson (18-03-07); Pictured left. After quite a few repeats 'Piss Pot' seems to have settled at at V6.
'Pockets Into Trigonometry' repeated by Barnaby Carver (24-03-07). Barnaby also made the second ascent of LTP left with extension on (19-04-07) confirming the grade of V8 ish...also BC and AW did LTP right and thought it was maybe V7 after all and not V6.


Clodgy Point: 'Salad Fingers' repeated by Chris Hall (03-03-07);
'Andy's Link Up' repeated by Andy Whall (?-12-06) and Chris Hall (10-03-07).

Zennor Hill: 'Agony Aunt' repeated by Andy Whall (03-11-06).'Foreign Affairs'repeated by Andy Whall.

Note your ascents of 'Andy's Link Up' and 'Agony Aunt' and 'Foreign Affairs' are second ascents.

New problems climbed since the original list was written: 'Snoopy' at Carn Brea, V7/8 6c. First ascent Andy Whall (21-12-06), repeated by Barnaby Carver (02-02-07).
'French Toast' Godrevy V7/8. First Ascent Andy Whall