As reported on ukbouldering.....http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5678.0.html
"New 8A in Cornwall
«on: June 14, 2006, 10:02:17 AM »
Dave Biggs has finally climbed his project at Godreavy...
Providence is proposed to be V10/11 (Font 8A) and takes an incredibly steap line up a short arete from a sit-start well below it. It's only about 3-4 moves but has an evil dyno at the" end.
There are more pictures in the Godreavy section of his site:
http://www.dbcs.org.uk/
12 comments:
Dave showed me the moves on this a month or so ago, I walked away in horror! the dyno is very hard! and requires a very specific body type, ie very strong and very dynamic!
Is this the first 8a in Cornwall?
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/HardSWBoulders2006/cornish_list.shtml
heres the list from javu
Thanks guys. Though its still a provisional grade until someone else has a go. I still think that someone tall might be able to knock it down a grade.
Can anyone tell me if the nose, looking out to sea, in the bowling alley has been climbed before from a propper sit start. I was down on thurs and the beach was low. I started with my back towards the sea, right in a small slot, left on a poor slopey undercut at full reach, no feet. Pulled on and climbed up the nose to top out.
Did the nose from a sitter, I have longish arms and it was a stretch to reach. Get a thin horizontal slot with your right, and a poor undercut with your left. Pull off the floor which is requires a lot of compression between the holds and I kept bumping both feet up at the same time (again compression between your feet on either side of the nose because there are no real holds) untill I could get my left foot on to an obvious heel hook. The rest involved a few slaps and heel/toe hooks to reach the good hold. Its quite a tricky problem, maybe 7c. It took me a while to figure out the moves, then about 5 goes to link it. You could probably make it easier by moving left after the start to good holds.
I flashed Daves new problem, thought it was a reasonable problem with ok holds and moves. The last dyno is quite awkward and blind, I was happy to get it first go. Its hard to put a number to things, there are far too many variables, all I can tell you is how they felt to me on the day. I felt the new problem was quite a bit harder than Daves, it cartainly took moor effort and time to do. But maybe it just suited me more. I am sure as time goes by a consensus will apear. What people should worry about is pushing them selves, not comparing them to others. And if it is on good problems, in a nice setting, then that always helps.
Good effort James! I always thought that someone tall might be able to do well on it. Also had I known it was going to be posted would have put a more pessimistic grade on it. I thought it was harder than other V8/V9's around but then Im only a short ass. As you say its hard to put a number on these things and grades tend to be quite subjective. I felt I gave it the 8a mark more as a motivational guide than a realistic marker.
Really interested in the line you found though.
This is what I really dont like about the internet-grade thingy. IMHO grades should be there to GUIDE you to a certain problem/area, mainly so you can get on things that are goung to be AROUND the level you want to try on a certain day. They should not be used for petty 1 up-manship and to try to be-little others.
Also it is very hard to display sarcasm, and tact etc on forums/blogs and so some people take throw away comments to heart.
People find things hard and others find things easy. Problems feel wildly different on different days etc. I think it is really sad that people cant say what they really think in public, and all because of the worry that someone will try to slag them off.
Hopefuly, people will grow out of this ugly trend sooner rather than later, and support their friends like friends should.
So, dont worry too much about what otheres say, just enjoy yourself. You know how much effort you had to put in to do a problem. A single number cant describe an experience.
Also, dont get too excited about the new line. It is ok but not great. Also probably a bit eliminate, some jugs on the left I didnt use if I remember rightly.
Take it easy
James
Its called Controvoscopy, have no idea why or what it means, dont even think it is a word.
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