Thursday, December 21, 2006
In cold temps this morning finally after six sessions I pulled over the top of the boulder.
'Snoopy V7/8' (as I guess it should now be known as) is the line under the highest bulgiest part of the boulder.
RH in crack left to a sloper and RH long slap to a fairly good sloper in the dip at top of the boulder. Left foot is slung up and a long reach into the rightmost part of the crack with LH......Right knee swings onto the vertical flake and RH jam and pull over!...then mop up the blood!
Initially the green slime on the top of the boulder made it feel very hard, now its clean it should be a little easier! my guess for a grade is V7/8. In comparison to other problems on Carn Brea it feels harder than Pond Wall V7 and Yep V7, but in the end its one move and then a thrutch!
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
In between the showers I scraped across some very slopey slopers to complete "Gordon Brown" on the Snoopy boulder. Grade wise probably around the V5 mark, although it felt harder!
It starts on the right arete, reach across to the crimp and then onto the slopers, finishing in the crack.
Of course this line may have been climbed before. Variations exist and a harder finish would be to avoid the left hand side of the crack.
Monday, November 06, 2006
Monday, October 23, 2006
click here to download to desktop and open as pdf
West and mid Cornwall hardest! a list of problems v7 and above
Originally appeared on Dave Hendersons Javu web site. Barney Carver has submitted it to the blocs penwith blog. Grades are a mixture of font and V, (with the font grades for the problems down at Gwynver, Its worth pointing out that they are the grades given by first ascentionists and judging by some of the views of repeaters are a little soft). Most of the other problems are a concensus grade.
Any views on grades or significant repeats, I would be glad to hear of them.
It also makes a good tick list!
Anyone who wants to begin a V6/font 7a list get it on!
Friday, September 08, 2006
It's been noticed that 'Providence' has been wire brushed. I had a look today and sure enough all the holds have had a good scrubbing. There is no need for this and the rock at Godrevy is too soft to sustain such tactics. It's a fragile rock and wire brushing is not a good idea!. A tooth brush with a towel/chalk should be fine.
Wednesday, June 28, 2006
As reported on ukbouldering.....http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5678.0.html
"New 8A in Cornwall
«on: June 14, 2006, 10:02:17 AM »
Dave Biggs has finally climbed his project at Godreavy...
Providence is proposed to be V10/11 (Font 8A) and takes an incredibly steap line up a short arete from a sit-start well below it. It's only about 3-4 moves but has an evil dyno at the" end.
There are more pictures in the Godreavy section of his site:
Sunday, May 21, 2006
Nice conditions today at Godrevy, suprise really as heavy rain was forecast, dry, cool and windy gave me the chance to finish the direct/high finish to LTP. same as original ie from the low pocket, move left to crimps, long move with right to a crimp slot, then instead of going left to the ledge, use a small crimp above the slot and make a deadpoint with left to the top and share....of course don't top out!!....not sure of a grade....its harder than the V8 LTP left gets, so it seems to me its probably 7b+.
Saturday, April 01, 2006
Monday, March 06, 2006
A.W climbs a major* new line on the Australia boulder at Clodgy.
To find this boulder, walk from St Ives on Zennor footpath, when you see the large blocks on headland, head down towards the sea, the bouldering is below you, Australia boulder is further on and down below, all easy to find hopefully!.
'Salad Fingers' starts as for 'boomerang', moves directly up Ulurulu V5 and then powerfully left on slopers to the finishing jug on 'bomerang',thought it was harder than Boomerang, so maybe 7b, thus V8 till someone says otherwise!.....of course it probably isn't this hard, but seemed so at the time!
*of course it isn't a major line, but nor is it an eliminate! name derived from www.weebls-stuff.com/toons/salad+fingers/
Thursday, February 23, 2006
Wednesday, February 22, 2006
Wednesday, February 08, 2006
click to view movie
What you have here is a kind of trailer for an ongoing video project!
First problem is pathside boulder in St Ives, Pocket Elimate v7, we do only half of it as its wet.
Second problem is Classic Arete V2? at Carn Brea.
Third problem Compressor Wall traverse at Carn Brea, not sure of the grade on this one.
Fourth problem is Beeday V5 at Godrevy main gully area, this goes just left of Ur hot (see other video).
Fifth prob is Trigonometry V6 which is on the same wall as Beeday further out towards the sea, this starts from the triangular hold and lunges left, a harder variation trends right along the seam, also a low start and a start from the left arete.
Sixth problem is a project.
Seventh prob is LTP right hand which is V7 and starts on finger hold and pocket and goes right to sloper and finish. A left version goes left to crimps, then a slot for RH and finish with left on the ledge this goes at V8 ish.