Wednesday, August 08, 2007

News

"Barney Carver, with Helen Pardoe spotting, making a successful ascent of 'The Groove' V8 6c at Clodgy Point, St. Ives." Tobi Carver/UE Images.

News from Barnaby Carver.

Andy - As you know I succeeded on my long-term project at Clodgy Point on Bank Holiday Monday (28th May). I’ve called the new highball problem ‘The Groove’ and think it’s V8 6c. When I did it I used two normal pads, one extra large one and one extra small one. I also used two normal sized spotters! The full description of the problem is as follows…

"** The Groove V8 6c X. One of Clodgy’s most serious and best highball problems takes the undercut overhanging groove in its entirety. A hard start leads to a technical and tenuous sequence of bridging moves up the groove, which is exited leftwards at its top. The arĂȘte on the right is used but not the chossy hanging blocks further right."

Also at Clodgy (on 24-07-07) I climbed a full anticlockwise traverse around the Australia Boulder which links ‘Northern Track’ into ‘Work in Progress’ and continues to reverse ‘Stainless Steel’ before finishing upwards at the starting point. I’ve named this link-up ‘Circumnavigation’ and think it justifies a grade of V9 6c as it takes in all of the hard climbing on ‘Work in Progress’(V8) in addition to lots of strenuous V5 climbing and is a demanding 20 metres long in total.

Oh! And I reckon that new traverse I climbed at Godrevy on 29-06-2007 should be called ‘The Poacher’ because I nicked it! It’s probably easy V7 6b but on the tiring side!

Thursday, August 02, 2007

hurrah a new problem



After months of rain, I managed to get out and do a new problem. What made it more special was that I think its a new discovery. A small crag and cave made up of tufa like formations, the calcite deposits have bonded the weaker rock underneath. There are a few things there to do, also great snorkelling and plenty of elimates and link ups. I'm not sure of the grade, it was quite a few moves long for me and it was very hot!......

Oh yea the edited video is made up of two takes!