Snoopy project no more

In cold temps this morning finally after six sessions I pulled over the top of the boulder.

'Snoopy V7/8' (as I guess it should now be known as) is the line under the highest bulgiest part of the boulder.

RH in crack left to a sloper and RH long slap to a fairly good sloper in the dip at top of the boulder. Left foot is slung up and a long reach into the rightmost part of the crack with LH......Right knee swings onto the vertical flake and RH jam and pull over!...then mop up the blood!

Initially the green slime on the top of the boulder made it feel very hard, now its clean it should be a little easier! my guess for a grade is V7/8. In comparison to other problems on Carn Brea it feels harder than Pond Wall V7 and Yep V7, but in the end its one move and then a thrutch!

Carn Brea (minor addition)

In between the showers I scraped across some very slopey slopers to complete "Gordon Brown" on the Snoopy boulder. Grade wise probably around the V5 mark, although it felt harder!

It starts on the right arete, reach across to the crimp and then onto the slopers, finishing in the crack.



Of course this line may have been climbed before. Variations exist and a harder finish would be to avoid the left hand side of the crack.

Clodgy

Andy on starting moves of 'bloodlust original' V8, bit warm even tho its November! Barney found it easy tho and managed to take some pics!

West and mid Cornwall hardest!

click here to download to desktop and open as pdf

West and mid Cornwall hardest! a list of problems v7 and above

Originally appeared on Dave Hendersons Javu web site. Barney Carver has submitted it to the blocs penwith blog. Grades are a mixture of font and V, (with the font grades for the problems down at Gwynver, Its worth pointing out that they are the grades given by first ascentionists and judging by some of the views of repeaters are a little soft). Most of the other problems are a concensus grade.

Any views on grades or significant repeats, I would be glad to hear of them.

It also makes a good tick list!

Anyone who wants to begin a V6/font 7a list get it on!

wire brushing at Godrevy

It's been noticed that 'Providence' has been wire brushed. I had a look today and sure enough all the holds have had a good scrubbing. There is no need for this and the rock at Godrevy is too soft to sustain such tactics. It's a fragile rock and wire brushing is not a good idea!. A tooth brush with a towel/chalk should be fine.

Peace.

Font 8a at Godrevy

As reported on ukbouldering.....http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5678.0.html

"New 8A in Cornwall
«on: June 14, 2006, 10:02:17 AM »
Dave Biggs has finally climbed his project at Godreavy...

Providence is proposed to be V10/11 (Font 8A) and takes an incredibly steap line up a short arete from a sit-start well below it. It's only about 3-4 moves but has an evil dyno at the" end.

There are more pictures in the Godreavy section of his site:
http://www.dbcs.org.uk/

bowling alley LTP (left) extension

Nice conditions today at Godrevy, suprise really as heavy rain was forecast, dry, cool and windy gave me the chance to finish the direct/high finish to LTP. same as original ie from the low pocket, move left to crimps, long move with right to a crimp slot, then instead of going left to the ledge, use a small crimp above the slot and make a deadpoint with left to the top and share....of course don't top out!!....not sure of a grade....its harder than the V8 LTP left gets, so it seems to me its probably 7b+.