Thursday, April 26, 2007
Godrevy short movie
A useful video for locating problems and some beta!....let us know what you reckon of the grades? French Toast is probably harder than V6, maybe 7 or bit harder, I just checked the rockfax grade comparison chart http://www.rockfax.com/publications/bgrades.html and as a move its defefintely hard 6c!
On the video I mistakenly called James problem 'evening sunset' which is wrong it should be 'perfect evening light'....evening sunset is another problem on Carn Brea.
Friday, April 20, 2007
recent activity
This info related to the graded list previously posted click here for list!New repeats not listed -
Carn Brea: 'Blown Away' has been repeated by Barnaby Carver (9-10-06) and Andy Whall (?-03-07)
Godrevy: 'Providence' has been repeated by Mike Adams (?-??-06) (this was reported in Climber);
'Piss Pot' repeated by Max Dutson (18-03-07); Pictured left. After quite a few repeats 'Piss Pot' seems to have settled at at V6.
'Pockets Into Trigonometry' repeated by Barnaby Carver (24-03-07). Barnaby also made the second ascent of LTP left with extension on (19-04-07) confirming the grade of V8 ish...also BC and AW did LTP right and thought it was maybe V7 after all and not V6.
Clodgy Point: 'Salad Fingers' repeated by Chris Hall (03-03-07);
'Andy's Link Up' repeated by Andy Whall (?-12-06) and Chris Hall (10-03-07).
Zennor Hill: 'Agony Aunt' repeated by Andy Whall (03-11-06).'Foreign Affairs'repeated by Andy Whall.
Note your ascents of 'Andy's Link Up' and 'Agony Aunt' and 'Foreign Affairs' are second ascents.
New problems climbed since the original list was written: 'Snoopy' at Carn Brea, V7/8 6c. First ascent Andy Whall (21-12-06), repeated by Barnaby Carver (02-02-07).
'French Toast' Godrevy V7/8. First Ascent Andy Whall
Saturday, January 27, 2007
you tube/mobile phone experiment
just testing how easy it is to go out with just phone and get video on blog...pretty easy really. Anyhow this boulder is getting really worked out. Problems described left to right.slab V?
SS the one in video V4
SS jug to crack as on 'gone west' V5
SS jug to patata* reach to crack V5
SSjug to patata* with right and then left to crimp and top avoiding crack and arete V7
SSjug to patata* with left right to crystal and top 'foreign affairs' stiff V7
SS project jug str8 up
standing up arete and slab V0
hand traverse right V?
hand traverse from right into arete V4
*patata potato like protuberance (sloper)
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Foreign Affairs


http://www.ueimages.com/
Photos by Toby Carver of C.H and A.W on Foreign Affairs. Originally given V7 by C.H. Sunny Sunday best conditions this year enjoyed by a big posse up on Zennor. Best admit that this problem still awaits a second ascent and confirmation of grade!
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
Thursday, December 21, 2006
Snoopy project no more

In cold temps this morning finally after six sessions I pulled over the top of the boulder.
'Snoopy V7/8' (as I guess it should now be known as) is the line under the highest bulgiest part of the boulder.
RH in crack left to a sloper and RH long slap to a fairly good sloper in the dip at top of the boulder. Left foot is slung up and a long reach into the rightmost part of the crack with LH......Right knee swings onto the vertical flake and RH jam and pull over!...then mop up the blood!
Initially the green slime on the top of the boulder made it feel very hard, now its clean it should be a little easier! my guess for a grade is V7/8. In comparison to other problems on Carn Brea it feels harder than Pond Wall V7 and Yep V7, but in the end its one move and then a thrutch!
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
Carn Brea (minor addition)

In between the showers I scraped across some very slopey slopers to complete "Gordon Brown" on the Snoopy boulder. Grade wise probably around the V5 mark, although it felt harder!
It starts on the right arete, reach across to the crimp and then onto the slopers, finishing in the crack.
Of course this line may have been climbed before. Variations exist and a harder finish would be to avoid the left hand side of the crack.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
